Safe Travels in Japan - Ryokan Hoeiso

Hoeiso
(website is in Japanese only, Trip Advisor link here)

Kayleigh here. Even before we had started planning out our trip, we knew we wanted to spend the last couple of nights relaxing in one of Japan's famous hot spring resorts. Taking a two week vacation in a foreign country where the language barrier is omnipresent and the risk of breaking one of hundreds of little etiquette rules is terribly daunting can really take a lot out of you. And what better way to cap off the perfect trip than to soak in a hot, steaming bath as many times as you can take in one day?

To start off, we knew we wanted to find somewhere that was a true representation of the romantic portrayal of ryokans that we knew from popular media. Somewhere far away from civilization, with naturally fed hot springs to soak in and a cozy room to sit and read books all day. If it had a history to it, all the better, and an artists touch to the architecture and decorations would be the icing on the cake.

At first, our search proved more difficult than we expected. Staying at a true, traditional ryokan means that you get a kaiseki dining experience, where course after course is carefully crafted and artfully presented- a meal fit for nobility. The dishes are always excellent examples of local cuisines and seasonal ingredients, utilizing every piece of each animal and every possible preparation of the fresh produce available to them with the ingenuity of an era long passed. What were the chances of finding a ryokan that would willingly prepare gluten free meals?

After some searching and several back-and-forth emails, we finally found a place that fit what we were looking for. Using a booking website as our translator, we managed to explain Jason's intolerance to the staff at Hoeiso, and they told us they would be more than happy to make special preparations for him. We were able to double check with them once we arrived, and were quite reassured that they would still be able to accommodate the restrictions.

We ended up staying in the Shigure room, with a fantastic view of the mountain looming behind the buildings. Although we spent most of our stay relaxing and never left the property of the resort, we talked with several other guests that found quite a few things to do around the train station in Hakone and the surrounding area, but we were perfectly content exploring and appreciating all the paintings and floral arrangements scattered throughout the building, alongside liberal trips to the indoor and outdoor hot springs. Just keep in mind before booking that the baths are public and separated by gender- if you want to bathe as a couple or family, then you have to wait until the evening and reserve a half-hour slot in one of the outdoor baths.

If you are wondering why I have not talked about the food yet, it is because there really are not any words that can adequately describe it. Each meal was carefully and artfully set up on the low dining table while we soaked in the baths, then once we arrived our hostess would briefly explain to us how to eat some of the more complicated dishes before excusing herself. The table was always set with the same seating arrangement in mind, so we would know which food was gluten free. Surprisingly, though, there was very little difference between our meals- Jason would have a few different small plates and often a soy sauce substitute, but it all seemed very natural and well thought out. It did not feel like he had to make do in the slightest.

We more often than not bungled our way through the meal, with each bite being unfamiliar but extraordinarily delicious fare despite the fact that we were undoubtedly eating it wrong. From shabu-shabu to yakiniku to whole grilled fish, not to mention all the tiny side dishes- we had more than enough to eat at every meal, and often ended up leaving the rice untouched. It was a truly amazing experience, especially to have made it all the way through two days without getting glutened once.

We highly, highly recommend taking the opportunity to stay at Hoeiso for a night or two on your trip. The only things that we had to watch out for was the tea set that they kept in the room- the wrapped sweet cakes that came by default were off-limits, and one of the two teas they offered on the tray was barley. A quick sniff let us know which tea was which, but make sure not to confuse the two.

Jason here. Hoeiso was wonderful. The staff was impeccably friendly, and made sure my meals were gluten free. This must not have been easy to do, as the meals consisted of well over a dozen items each. I must admit I did have some apprehension at first as I did not want to get sick on the first night and be unable to enjoy the hot spring experience. After talking to the staff, I felt better, and after my meal was specifically labeled when they brought it to our room I felt absolutely safe. 

If you ever get to have a traditional meal, definitely give it a go. There are just so many items to choose from that you will end up trying many new delicacies. I honestly have no idea what some of the items I tried even was. Some were delicious, some I traded with Kayleigh for something more to my liking. Others, looking back, I am fairly certain were sauces or toppings which I unknowingly ate plain. I would describe the whole meal in just two words, variety and filling. I distinctly remember dinner on the first night, and after taking the last bite of the meal in front me I said, “Wow, I couldn’t possibly eat any more”. It was precisely that moment, that our second course was brought in and I knew I would be in trouble. After yet another dessert course, I was truly about to burst, but feeling very satisfied.

The hot springs themselves were a great finish to our vacation. After walking for nearly 12 hours straight on some days, my legs and feet were in for some much needed heat and relaxation. Although the hot springs were technically open to everyone at the resort, I only ever ran into someone else in the men’s hot spring once. I know Kayleigh met others on more than one occasion, so your experiences may vary. My particular favorite was the reserved outdoor hot spring. It was night just to relax with Kayleigh and enjoy the night sky, and listen to the nearby river. 

If you are spending any great length of time in Japan, be sure to stay at a ryokan for at least a day while you are there, whether it is for relaxation or to enjoy the cultural experience of a traditional meal and room.