Safe Travels in Japan - Ura no Niwa

Ura no Niwa

Jason here. On our second night out of eating, we spent some time trying to find a particular sushi restaurant. As it turned out, the place must have closed some time before, or we had the wrong address as it was nowhere to be seen. Luckily for us there were a few restaurants nearby. We decided to go for a fancier looking place named, Ura no Niwa in the Ebisu South Bld.

The atmosphere was lovely. We were sat a booth that was shaped like a cylinder with s small section of side cut out. This meant that it felt really secluded, like we were the only ones there on a private date. The lights dim, and the smell of delicious food really set a great honey moon atmosphere.

Our waiter spoke English really well, but be aware that he was the only one there that could.

For my meal, I ordered a hotpot with cabbage, potatoes, carrots, daikon, shrimp, mussels, and a white fish. It usually came with some sauces, but they were not gluten free. Instead they substituted them for a little dish of salt.
The meal was well prepared, but definitely not for me. I was happy for the private booth, as I am sure I looked ridiculous trying to eat giant pieces of cabbage. Cabbage is usually a neutral food for me, but there was quite a lot of it in the meal, that it was a bit bland by the end. I’m sure the sauces would have added the flavor it was missing. The mussels were my favorite part, but again were a bit difficult to get at with just chopsticks.

What really stood out to me was the shrimp. I had never had a raw shrimp before, and as it turns out I am definitely not a fan. I removed the shells still, which I am honestly not certain if you were supposed to or not. It was mushy, and tasted like old fish paste.

You might be surprised to hear, but I was actually really happy we ate here. Trying out a unique dish is what traveling is all about, and this was certainly unique. Most of all I love learning new things about myself, and that day I learned I definitely do not like raw shrimp.

Kayleigh here. Personally, I could find joy in eating a giant bowl of steamed cabbage, so I think I enjoyed the dish more than Jason- yes, it was more than large enough for the two of us to share. And it was our first experience with the 'cook it yourself' mentality, as they brought the pot out over a small burner and we picked from it while it was still hot and freshly cooked. We got to enjoy a very intimate meal in an intimate booth, really making us feel like we were having a fancy dinner just the two of us.

Safe Travels in Japan - Cafe Gusto

Café Gusto  

(website is in Japanese only)

Jason here. Before we went on our trip to Japan, Kayleigh spent a great deal of time investigating restaurants that would be gluten friendly. Particularly chains which we might be able to find anywhere, and use as a backup in a pinch.

The first chain restaurant we went to was Café Gusto. This restaurant seems to specialize in American food, sporting a wide variety of burger patties. Many of them stuffed with cheeses, and covered in gravy.

The menu is mostly in English, and they even have an allergy sheet. The waitress spoke really good English, so communicating was no issue. Unfortunately, the allergy sheet eliminates a large swathe of options off the menu. I ultimately settled on an Italian salad (without dressing), and some French fries.

The salad and fries were what you would expect, but my favorite part of Café Gusto was the buffet style drinks. The soda machine had Melon Fanta, which would end up becoming my favorite drink in Japan. For those that have had Ramune, it tastes much like the melon variety of those. It’s a fizzy, light, yet somehow incredibly sweet drink. The odd part is, I don’t really like melons as fruit, yet somehow this drink really called out to me.

Ultimately, this is a great restaurant to go to with a group of people. The large menu, will allow them to find something to their liking, and the salad and fries were good. As a chain, one was usually convenient to find, and it relieved some stress as a safe backup.

Kayleigh here- that reminds me! Most American restaurants give you unlimited soft drinks when you order one, but it's a bit more of a novelty in Japan. This was the only place we visited that had a soda fountain for customers to use, and it gave us a chance to sample quite a few unique sodas and juices without having to buy a whole bottle at a vending machine. The food itself was pretty similar to what you would normally get at a diner- it sounded like the menu items change seasonally, so just ask for an updated allergen menu when you get there.

Safe Travels in Japan - Ryokan Hoeiso

Hoeiso
(website is in Japanese only, Trip Advisor link here)

Kayleigh here. Even before we had started planning out our trip, we knew we wanted to spend the last couple of nights relaxing in one of Japan's famous hot spring resorts. Taking a two week vacation in a foreign country where the language barrier is omnipresent and the risk of breaking one of hundreds of little etiquette rules is terribly daunting can really take a lot out of you. And what better way to cap off the perfect trip than to soak in a hot, steaming bath as many times as you can take in one day?

To start off, we knew we wanted to find somewhere that was a true representation of the romantic portrayal of ryokans that we knew from popular media. Somewhere far away from civilization, with naturally fed hot springs to soak in and a cozy room to sit and read books all day. If it had a history to it, all the better, and an artists touch to the architecture and decorations would be the icing on the cake.

At first, our search proved more difficult than we expected. Staying at a true, traditional ryokan means that you get a kaiseki dining experience, where course after course is carefully crafted and artfully presented- a meal fit for nobility. The dishes are always excellent examples of local cuisines and seasonal ingredients, utilizing every piece of each animal and every possible preparation of the fresh produce available to them with the ingenuity of an era long passed. What were the chances of finding a ryokan that would willingly prepare gluten free meals?

After some searching and several back-and-forth emails, we finally found a place that fit what we were looking for. Using a booking website as our translator, we managed to explain Jason's intolerance to the staff at Hoeiso, and they told us they would be more than happy to make special preparations for him. We were able to double check with them once we arrived, and were quite reassured that they would still be able to accommodate the restrictions.

We ended up staying in the Shigure room, with a fantastic view of the mountain looming behind the buildings. Although we spent most of our stay relaxing and never left the property of the resort, we talked with several other guests that found quite a few things to do around the train station in Hakone and the surrounding area, but we were perfectly content exploring and appreciating all the paintings and floral arrangements scattered throughout the building, alongside liberal trips to the indoor and outdoor hot springs. Just keep in mind before booking that the baths are public and separated by gender- if you want to bathe as a couple or family, then you have to wait until the evening and reserve a half-hour slot in one of the outdoor baths.

If you are wondering why I have not talked about the food yet, it is because there really are not any words that can adequately describe it. Each meal was carefully and artfully set up on the low dining table while we soaked in the baths, then once we arrived our hostess would briefly explain to us how to eat some of the more complicated dishes before excusing herself. The table was always set with the same seating arrangement in mind, so we would know which food was gluten free. Surprisingly, though, there was very little difference between our meals- Jason would have a few different small plates and often a soy sauce substitute, but it all seemed very natural and well thought out. It did not feel like he had to make do in the slightest.

We more often than not bungled our way through the meal, with each bite being unfamiliar but extraordinarily delicious fare despite the fact that we were undoubtedly eating it wrong. From shabu-shabu to yakiniku to whole grilled fish, not to mention all the tiny side dishes- we had more than enough to eat at every meal, and often ended up leaving the rice untouched. It was a truly amazing experience, especially to have made it all the way through two days without getting glutened once.

We highly, highly recommend taking the opportunity to stay at Hoeiso for a night or two on your trip. The only things that we had to watch out for was the tea set that they kept in the room- the wrapped sweet cakes that came by default were off-limits, and one of the two teas they offered on the tray was barley. A quick sniff let us know which tea was which, but make sure not to confuse the two.

Jason here. Hoeiso was wonderful. The staff was impeccably friendly, and made sure my meals were gluten free. This must not have been easy to do, as the meals consisted of well over a dozen items each. I must admit I did have some apprehension at first as I did not want to get sick on the first night and be unable to enjoy the hot spring experience. After talking to the staff, I felt better, and after my meal was specifically labeled when they brought it to our room I felt absolutely safe. 

If you ever get to have a traditional meal, definitely give it a go. There are just so many items to choose from that you will end up trying many new delicacies. I honestly have no idea what some of the items I tried even was. Some were delicious, some I traded with Kayleigh for something more to my liking. Others, looking back, I am fairly certain were sauces or toppings which I unknowingly ate plain. I would describe the whole meal in just two words, variety and filling. I distinctly remember dinner on the first night, and after taking the last bite of the meal in front me I said, “Wow, I couldn’t possibly eat any more”. It was precisely that moment, that our second course was brought in and I knew I would be in trouble. After yet another dessert course, I was truly about to burst, but feeling very satisfied.

The hot springs themselves were a great finish to our vacation. After walking for nearly 12 hours straight on some days, my legs and feet were in for some much needed heat and relaxation. Although the hot springs were technically open to everyone at the resort, I only ever ran into someone else in the men’s hot spring once. I know Kayleigh met others on more than one occasion, so your experiences may vary. My particular favorite was the reserved outdoor hot spring. It was night just to relax with Kayleigh and enjoy the night sky, and listen to the nearby river. 

If you are spending any great length of time in Japan, be sure to stay at a ryokan for at least a day while you are there, whether it is for relaxation or to enjoy the cultural experience of a traditional meal and room.

Safe Travels in Japan - Yatagarasu and unnamed cafe

Unnamed cafe

Jason here. My second favorite restaurant we visited in Japan was café that we unfortunately could not find the name of. We did take some pictures of the sign for anyone that can read Japanese.

Hidden away in off a road in Harujuku, is this tiny little café located by walking down some stairs to basement. When you walk through the door, it’s like walking back in time with classical music playing and décor reminiscent of that era. Everything was just so relaxing and inviting, the atmosphere brings you in.

After sitting down I ordered a coffee, and Kayleigh ordered a Matcha Parfait. Depending on the coffee, I like it either black or with lots of chocolate, cream, and sugar. If it is really good flavorful coffee, with a good bit of bitterness to it I like it straight. Otherwise if it is lacking flavor, overly bitter, or already two sweet I just go crazy with additives.

Coming in a tiny little teacup, I drank my coffee plain. It was bitter, but still packing a strong coffee flavor.

If you are every walking around Harujuku, perhaps sightseeing the latest fashions, definitely find this little hidden gem and stop by for a nice relaxing cup of coffee.

Kayleigh here. It was quite a surprising find, to duck into this quiet European-style restaurant after walking through the crowded Harajuku main thoroughfare. The waiters were all crisply dressed in black and white, and the bartender was grinding the coffee beans in a wooden hand-cranked box. As if to juxtapose this, the coffee percolator itself was a series of glass globes and metal strips- looking more at home in a chemistry laboratory than a quaint painting-lined getaway.

Yatagarasu

Jason here. After taking a day trip out to Nara and walking around the park, we stopped at a restaurant called Yatagarasu to grab dinner. Nara is famous for a particular breed of chicken, and that was this restaurants specialty. 

The menu was in Japanese, and our waiter spoke only a very little bit of English so we were adventurous and ordered effectively a few random things off of the menu. We had pictures we pointed to, but there was definitely some uncertainty of what we would be getting. Luckily we had our allergy card on us, and the waiter was extremely friendly and made sure nothing contained any gluten.

We ended up ordering chicken heart (or liver?) sashimi for the both of us, grilled chicken offal rice bowl, and breast and egg soup. I had the offal rice bowl, and the soup was Kayleigh’s (we don't think that was gluten free).

We aren’t certain if we ordered sashimi chicken heart, or if it was liver. Either way it was tastier then I expected. The texture is similar to that of salmon sashimi, with a bit of an initial chewiness to it that quickly gives way. The taste itself was plain, with little to no hint of chicken. The closest flavor I can think of would be an extremely lightly flavored water. Something like rose water.

The chicken offal rice bowl was delicious. The offal was well cooked, and just tasted like chicken with a bit more flavor and richness than one would usually find. 

Kayleigh here. I would also like to vouch for the atmosphere of this place- it seemed like the sort of cozy local spot that you could easily become a regular at. Since izakayas (the tiny bars you see peppering downtown streets) were out of the picture for us, this was the one time that I really felt like we had found something unique. They had something on the menu for every part of the chicken, showcasing the unusual bits and really making them shine instead of trying to hide them in a sausage or smothering them in a overpowering sauce.